| List of Maps | viii |
| 1 | Welcome to Banff & Jasper National Parks | 1 |
| 1 | Banff National Park Today | 3 |
| 2 | The Best of Banff National Park | 4 |
| 3 | Jasper National Park Today | 12 |
| 4 | The Best of Jasper National Park | 12 |
| 2 | Planning Your Trip | 20 |
| 1 | Getting Started: Information & Reservations | 20 |
| Online and On Your Way | 21 |
| 2 | When to Go | 26 |
| 3 | Money | 28 |
| 4 | Permits | 28 |
| The Great Western Annual Pass | 29 |
| 5 | Getting There | 30 |
| 6 | Getting Around | 33 |
| The Rental Advantage | 33 |
| 7 | Planning a Backcountry Trip | 34 |
| Backpacking for Beginners: Leave No Trace | 35 |
| 8 | Tips for RVers | 37 |
| 9 | Package Tours, Adventure Outings & Educational Programs | 38 |
| 10 | Tips for Travelers with Disabilities | 40 |
| 11 | Tips for Travelers with Pets | 41 |
| 12 | Tips for Travelers with Children | 41 |
| Hiking with Kids: Let the Discovery Begin! | 43 |
| 13 | Protecting Your Health & Safety | 43 |
| 14 | Protecting the Environment | 44 |
| Wildlife Encounters: What to Do | 46 |
| 3 | Exploring Banff National Park | 49 |
| 1 | Essentials | 52 |
| Numbers, Please | 54 |
| Fast Facts: Banff National Park | 56 |
| 2 | Tips from Park Staff | 58 |
| Top 10 Shops in Banff | 60 |
| 3 | The Highlights | 61 |
| Banff: Where'd That Funny Name Come From? | 61 |
| Arts in the National Park | 62 |
| 4 | How to See the Park in Several Days | 64 |
| Banff Calendar of Events | 65 |
| 5 | What to See and Do in Banff Townsite | 66 |
| The Banff Springs Hotel: Part of the Park's History | 68 |
| 6 | Driving Tours | 73 |
| Banff on a Rainy Day | 80 |
| 7 | Organized Tours | 83 |
| 4 | Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Banff National Park | 85 |
| 1 | Day Hikes | 85 |
| How Far (and Fast) Can I Really Go? | 91 |
| 2 | Exploring the Backcountry | 101 |
| 3 | Other Activities | 106 |
| Paddling the Bow | 109 |
| 4 | Winter Sports & Activities | 112 |
| Winter Driving | 113 |
| 5 | Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Banff National Park | 117 |
| 1 | Lodging in Banff National Park | 117 |
| Hostelling: Is It for You? | 124 |
| 2 | Frontcountry Camping in Banff National Park | 128 |
| Regular versus Self-registering Campgrounds | 129 |
| 3 | Backcountry Camping & Lodging in Banff National Park | 131 |
| 4 | Where to Eat in Banff National Park | 135 |
| 5 | Banff After Dark | 142 |
| 6 | Exploring Jasper National Park | 143 |
| 1 | Essentials | 146 |
| Fast Facts: Jasper National Park | 150 |
| 2 | Tips from Park Staff | 152 |
| "The Buildings Should Reflect the Landscape" | 153 |
| 3 | The Highlights | 154 |
| 4 | How to See the Park in Several Days | 155 |
| Jasper in the Rain | 156 |
| 5 | What to See & Do in Jasper Townsite | 157 |
| Titanic Dreams | 162 |
| 6 | Driving Tours | 162 |
| Mary Shaffer: Hunter of Peace | 169 |
| 7 | Organized Tours | 170 |
| 7 | Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Jasper National Park | 172 |
| 1 | Day Hikes | 173 |
| The View from the Top of Old Fort Point | 176 |
| 2 | Exploring the Backcountry | 184 |
| 3 | Other Activities | 188 |
| Biking Dos & Don'ts | 189 |
| 4 | Winter Sports & Activities | 192 |
| 8 | Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Jasper National Park | 195 |
| 1 | Lodging in Jasper National Park | 195 |
| 2 | Frontcountry Camping in Jasper National Park | 200 |
| 3 | Backcountry Camping & Lodging in Jasper National Park | 204 |
| 4 | Where to Eat in Jasper National Park | 205 |
| 5 | Jasper After Dark | 208 |
| 9 | Gateways to Banff & Jasper National Parks | 209 |
| 1 | Canmore & Kananaskis Country | 209 |
| 2 | Radium Hot Springs, B.C. & Kootenay National Parks | 220 |
| 3 | Golden, B.C. & Yoho National Parks | 226 |
| 4 | Mount Robson Provincial Park | 235 |
| 10 | A Nature Guide to Banff & Jasper National Parks | 237 |
| 1 | The Geology | 237 |
| Charting the Rockies East to West | 239 |
| 2 | The Life Zones | 241 |
| 3 | The Flora | 242 |
| 4 | The Fauna | 250 |
| Sheepish Sheep that Jump | 251 |
| 5 | The Future | 258 |
| Index | 259 |
| General Index | 259 |
| Accommodations Index | 261 |
| Restaurant Index | 262 |
| List of Maps | |
| The Canadian Rockies | 24 |
| Highway Access to Banff & Jasper National Parks | 32 |
| Banff National Park | 50 |
| Banff Townsite | 67 |
| Lake Louise Area | 78 |
| Banff National Park Trailheads | 88 |
| Jasper National Park | 144 |
| Jasper Townsite | 159 |
| Columbia Icefield Area | 164 |
| Jasper National Park Trailheads | 174 |